This article is not about people. It's about forums. The sad part is, the following is just a tiny collection of statements made on forums that evidence astonishingly limited powersports maintenance understanding. I mean, it's really bad advice. Typical in fact, of what's on powersports user forums. And again, it is ideas, fallacies, I am critiquing here, not people. These are just a few of the myriad of wrong things forums propagate.

As I always tell CBX owners, if you want your 600+ pound CBX to perform like a Vespa, then sure, accept that compression. It's a long way from the 170 psi the bike was manufactured with. What a shock you will get if you have that sick engine properly rebuilt. Of course, forums are uniformly "in denial" in regard to where that compression went.

How often? How about every 3500 miles as Honda specifies? And really, as often as you touch any tuning aspect of your motorcycle's engine. Common sense, this.

Misspelling aside, the U.S. model CBX alternator produces more power than the alternator on the GL1100, the touring bike that was contemporary with it. I don't think 350 watts is something to disregard. And neither is the alternator a bad design. Like anything, it has weak points that knowledgeable people know how to overcome. It's a good system. It's not "crap".

One, the CB650 does not have CDI ignition. Two, an ignition coil's potential is just that, potential, not what will ever be observed. And three, the vintage SOHC CB650 is a really good performing motorcycle.

No. Use good quality head gaskets. Don't machine the engine parts or fool around with different o-rings. No career mechanic has ever had to do this.

Nonsense. The PD series Keihin carburetors are the easiest of all SOHC four carbs to rebuild. And good performers, too. There's a reason dealer mechanics used to use them as upgrades on earlier models.

This is so messed up it's hard to know where to begin. Vintage Honda SOHC fours read exactly 170 psi cylinder compression at sea level when they are rebuilt using quality, factory or factory-like parts and professional machining and assembly technique. Not only that, no career mechanic has ever failed to get accurate compression readings indicating the engine's condition. But we don't use toy tools.

There is no good reason to do this. Not because of ethanol, not because of changes to gasoline, and not because Honda made the carbs too lean. None of those things are connected to reality.

No. The green Dyna coils work fine on the CBX. Of course, no aftermarket coil increases performance on a well-maintained, perfectly-tuned machine to begin with. But, whatever. Choose 2.2 ohm, 3 ohm, or 5 ohm. It does not make any difference.

Ultrasonic machines do not clean through vibration. They clean by cavitation. And they work.

The valves are plated. No stock Honda valve made before the mid 1980s can be refaced. There is a factory Honda bulletin on this. And it has nothing to do with a cam's (not valve's) nitriding, or the procedure known as valve lapping.

Whoa, how many fallacies can there be in just one post?! One, the screens were in use way before the CBX existed--on the SOHC 750 for example, and even as early as the DOHC 450 twin--and on many models introduced since. Two, the factory Honda screens do not disintegrate. More over fifty years and counting, virtually all of them are still in use. It's the kit screens that are junk.

Actually, an englarged bore, even a "big bore" (by definition one roughly 3mm oversize), automatically increases fuel richness. It does not lean the engine, so an increased bore does not necessitate richer carburetor jetting.

No. Honda did not make vintage streetbike carburetors too lean. They made them to need maintenance. This proposed leanness is one of the biggest fallacies in powersports.

Nonsense. If I had an SOHC four that didn't charge until 2500 rpm I would get it fixed. Normal breakeven with headlight off is 1300 rpm and only a bit more with the light on.

No. Again, if the battery discharges at 3500 rpm the system needs to be troubleshooted and repaired. This forum seems entrenched in this silliness.

3,000 rpm? No. No. No. Nader? Unbelievably ignorant.

Never. Do not abrade your float valve seats!

Wrong. Professional mechanics have for generations known that cam bearings can be swapped from one Honda to another with no ill result. Honda themselves even pomoted it.

Not so. First, Dyna modules are fairly low quality and nowhere near as good performing as the stock ignition. Second, that said, many many people have run Dynas without the issues opined here.

Career mechanics know well that ignition issues can indeed mimic fuel ones, even to the point of coloring the spark plug. It's merely common sense, you don't have to be a career mechanic to know it. One of the jobs of ignition is to keep the plugs clean.

Bad advice. Carburetor experts know very well that enlarging the holes does virtually nothing that can be detected in street use.

No. Not close to being reality. Even a beginning mechanic knows the issue is air filter restriction, not vacuum signal. Moreover, the CV carb's slide does not move as this post implies. It is not a linear proposition and the slide does not even start to lift until 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. And, less slide movement at the same rpm will result in richness, not leanness, in a CV carburetor.

Don't know where this is coming from. Every SOHC four I have serviced for well over fifty years has timed its F mark just fine using both static and dynamic methods.

Running your carbs "dry" does leave them dry, as any mechanic will tell you, and unless Sta-Bil is in the fuel the carbs will gel up.

Lot of error here. First, lead has nothing to do with it. Second, putting oil in your gas is an invitation to detonation. Third, there is no "problem" to solve. And fourth, bronze guides are not an improvement over the long-wearing and self-lubing factory cast iron guides.