bike campbell
Had a great opportunity to do some needed work on a CB750K8. Nice bike in better than average cosmetic shape. Dent and scratches on tank. Fuel laying on engine.
Coming from carburetors. More. Turned out the float bowls were barely hanging onto the carb castings due to badly stripped threads. More on that later. More.
Battery acid damage on battery box. Scotchlok on Dyna ignition power wire. Ugh! K&N air filter element. More ugh!
Carbs were quite a ways out of sync. Compare this with the last picture. Bent choke cable bracket.
All eight valve inspection caps have o-rings overdue to be replaced. They were replaced. Here are the new ones. Damaged air filter box. Modified too.
More. Front master cylinder reservior showing fluid damage. Missing nut on front brake lever.
Front axle clamps installed incorrectly. More. The carbs started on, steady plate is broken from being misinstalled.
Close-up. Replacement steady plate. Buggered up choke plate screws.
Petrified carb o-rings. More. Bent fast idle mechanism.
Float bowl gaskets look very old, maybe even original. Pilot screw springs and o-rings mis-installed resulting in them tearing each other up. Spring stuck in the casting and tough to remove, due to o-ring jamming in it.
This is how it should be, o-ring next to washer, not o-ring next to spring. More. More.
Wow. Float bowl screw holes in carb castings stripped, repaired many by installing steel inserts. Better look at the insert. Found two bowl screws with aluminum foil wrapped around them.
The other one. Oversized screws in some holes. Bad accelerator pump diaphragm.
Castings ready for cleaning. Testing holes with a torque-sensing tool. Bent choke cable bracket.
Oil tank drain plug sealing washer. Ignition advancer problem caused by the Dyna ignition. More.
More. More. More.
Alternator had one wire disconnected. This was the cause of poor charging. The ignition wiring had this Scotchlok. Ugh!
Fixed. Someone routed the turnsignal wires through the fork clamps. First time I have seen this. Keyswitch is in rough shape. First, someone packed silicone sealer inside the connector.
Then probably because the contacts plate is loose or falling off, the switch assembly was wired up with steel wire. The rear brake stay was misinstalled. Fixing the mis-installed fork/axle clamps.
Slight head gasket leak, common on these engines but preventable. Test-ridden 27 miles. Ding on right fork tube.
Incorrectly installed panel lights assembly. Oh boy! There's that mechanic's wired up keyswitch again.
More. More. Ugh. The siliconed-up keyswitch connector. Note also it is a good thing we got this close a look, see the corroded red wire?
Bad enough to melt one half of the connector, too. There it is. New one.
Terminals soldered in. All better! Fork springs are okay.
Fender was not assembled correctly, the spacers were on the wrong side, making the fender loosely mounted. This is the worst steering bearing race I have ever seen. Both drain plug washers were like this one.
This is what it took to remove that aftermarket oil filter bolt! Leftover engine guard bolts. Another.
Imperial bolt. Aftermarket oil filter. Not only is there no washer, there was no spring either!
New washer and spring installed. There you go. Look at oil filter sealing o-ring. Might be 20 years old if a day.
This is the correct tool for the oil filter bolt. With the Kerker exhaust, changing oil is a much more involved thing than it should be. That is cling wrap on the exhaust. Partly melted clutch cable, due to a missing clamp on the frame. Was replaced.
Note the difference between the new OEM brake shoes and the old OEM shoes. More than double the thickness. Whoever recammed your brake arm to get the shoes to wear this heavily should be shot, and I am not kidding. The leak at the front brake master cylinder is due, as I warned you, to corrosion. The only way to fix this is to rebuild the system and to put the better, non-corroding fluid in. Even the diaphragm is polluted.